Loewe - Paris Fashion Week AW15 show report

At London Fashion Week JW Anderson focused his own-line collection on the post-Soviet era of party girls who emerged from eastern Europe in the early 1990s. His collection for Loewe AW15 drew on a not dissimilar aesthetic: blouson jackets in the sheerest paper leather, with interesting 1980s-style asymmetric collars; straight leather overcoats that looked like fancy lab coats; and shiny pleated metallic dresses. It was 1980s, with fragments of the 1970s and 2000s thrown in.

"I want my collections to speak to each other," said the designer backstage of the "laboratory" of ideas that had inspired him here. "But they are for very different women. The Loewe woman is harder. And she's not as young."

Youth, so much the obsession among the luxury houses courting the teen elite, can be overrated. Sometimes a grown woman wants a beautifully tailored pair of trousers. And Anderson delivered many here, in particular a fine wide-legged herringbone tweed that fell from the hip and pooled over knee-length boots with a stacked heel and contrast leather details. There were other versions in a papery leather - a bit more unconventional but equally arresting. (Eccentricity is wasted on the young.)

There were super navy and camel separates also. Anderson played with a deliciously varied palette, adding pops of apple green, scarlet and electric blue to bring what he described as "bolts of lightning" to the clothes.

But we need to talk about the accessories. Last season, Anderson introduced a Puzzle bag to the house, a soft smush of geometric suedes that collapsed to take any form. For winter, he felt the bags needed to be "more robust", and work harder with a range of sartorial possibilities. The Puzzle was revisited in tougher exotic leathers. And there were structured midi-sized bags in vivid suedes with contrasting leather straps. As should be expected from the Spanish luxury leather house, Anderson has made a covetable contribution to its ever-growing archive.

"You want something that fits into different periods of the day," he explained of the bags' more solid appearance. "Something that works with a dress worn over trousers, or with the trousers by themselves."

Anderson works on the accessories in conjunction with the collection, and rarely do the two metiers work together on the catwalk as well as they did here.

Add to that some 1980s-style futuristic sunglasses and a few baubles for extra impact, and Anderson's "lightning" touches were complete. Electric.

For more reports from the Paris shows, go to our fashion weeks page on the FT web app, or visit our AW2015 fashion weeks hub on FT.com

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